Monday, July 03, 2006
Georgetown, Malaysia
After some 27 hours on the road, I have arrived in Georgetown, Malaysia and I am already WAY more enamoured with Malaysia than I ever was with Thailand. Perhaps Thailand caught me at a bad time. I was exausted when I arrived there. I was overcome by the humidity (which takes a few days to adjust to.) I became frustrated by Khao San Rd. I liked the physical beauty of Ko Tao and enjoyed learning how to dive, but then I became the most ill I have probably been in about 5 years, so it blotted its copy book! Overall, I found Thai's to be kind-hearted people, but I fear that the country is losing its heart and soul because of tourism. Yes tourism brings jobs and many economic benefits, and I don't want to deny them those benefits, but it can also reduce many of a places charms. For example, whereas in many places in the world a backpacker will find himself alone, or one of a few amongst the locals in restaurants recommended by the Lonely Planet, in the parts of Thailand I have visited so far, if one goes to a place recommended by the Lonely Planet, the only Thais there will be the one's serving you. Having said all that, I haven't seen all of Thailand yet, my only observation being that the more tourists a place has, the more of a specialized infrastructure springs up, and the more difficult it becomes to jump into the true culture and learn about the real heart of the country.
I think these observations also hold an important lesson for Tibet. I believe that I noted earlier how tourism has tarnished the charms of Lijiang. The newly constructed railway line will bring in many more tourists to Lhasa. This has the potential to further the silent genocide that is taking place there. It may bring some economic development, but there is little justice in who benefits from that economic development and no local input into the development strategy. It is wrong, and it is exploitative. When one adds up the benefits and the costs on a balance sheet, it is very likely that the negatives will outweigh any positives.
So onto Malaysia!!! The first Muslim country that I have ever visited. What a treat! The city of Georgetown's heart and soul has been shaped by its colonial history. The first thing you notice on the bus is the beautiful colonial architecture. A short walk on the streets and a visit to the town's excellent museum confirms the place's multicultural history and colourful vibrance. Chinese motorbikers speed past the chai stalls in Little India. Indian families go for an evening stroll through the streets of Chinatown. It is my kind of place, immense diversity, yet peaceful and tolerant. Just like a place such as this needs to be or it won't function successfully. Malaysia, and Indian's experiences living here is a story that Amitav Gosh brought to life in The Glass Palace. In a way I wanted to travel here because I read his passionate account.
Tomorrow I will take a train up the nearby Penang Hill. On Wednesday I will be travelling onward and upward, out of the tropical heat to the Cameron Highlands which in many ways will be a bit of a stroll down memory lane. The Cameron Highlands are well-known for their tea plantations. Apparently most of the labour was brought from Tamil Nadu in India. In 2000 I spent three months living amongst the tea planations of the Nilgiris Hills of Tamil Nadu. I note from the guide book that there is also a golf course there, so I am hoping to get in a round. From there, I will be following the advice of a friend of mine from my time in India, Olivier Morisset, and play with the bats in Taman Negara National Park, and then likely to Melaka.
I think these observations also hold an important lesson for Tibet. I believe that I noted earlier how tourism has tarnished the charms of Lijiang. The newly constructed railway line will bring in many more tourists to Lhasa. This has the potential to further the silent genocide that is taking place there. It may bring some economic development, but there is little justice in who benefits from that economic development and no local input into the development strategy. It is wrong, and it is exploitative. When one adds up the benefits and the costs on a balance sheet, it is very likely that the negatives will outweigh any positives.
So onto Malaysia!!! The first Muslim country that I have ever visited. What a treat! The city of Georgetown's heart and soul has been shaped by its colonial history. The first thing you notice on the bus is the beautiful colonial architecture. A short walk on the streets and a visit to the town's excellent museum confirms the place's multicultural history and colourful vibrance. Chinese motorbikers speed past the chai stalls in Little India. Indian families go for an evening stroll through the streets of Chinatown. It is my kind of place, immense diversity, yet peaceful and tolerant. Just like a place such as this needs to be or it won't function successfully. Malaysia, and Indian's experiences living here is a story that Amitav Gosh brought to life in The Glass Palace. In a way I wanted to travel here because I read his passionate account.
Tomorrow I will take a train up the nearby Penang Hill. On Wednesday I will be travelling onward and upward, out of the tropical heat to the Cameron Highlands which in many ways will be a bit of a stroll down memory lane. The Cameron Highlands are well-known for their tea plantations. Apparently most of the labour was brought from Tamil Nadu in India. In 2000 I spent three months living amongst the tea planations of the Nilgiris Hills of Tamil Nadu. I note from the guide book that there is also a golf course there, so I am hoping to get in a round. From there, I will be following the advice of a friend of mine from my time in India, Olivier Morisset, and play with the bats in Taman Negara National Park, and then likely to Melaka.
